Tres Dias en Chihuahua

The first three days in Mexico was as I expected and better. I got to experience all the cultural, biological, and landscape diversity that I was hoping to see. I also got to experience the challenges of being in a different culture, in particular, the language barriers and driving in the cities. But it is good to put oneself in uncomfortable situations and grow from it. My Spanish is getting a little bit better as I become immersed in it. And I’m getting more comfortable driving, although I definitely prefer the open roads in the mountains and deserts.

My first evening in Chihuahua, I met with Mario Marin Noyola. Although he spoke little English, the desk clerk at the hotel helped translate and Mario gave me much information about what to see. Mario is a long-time friend of my friend, Jesus, and a very nice person. Unfortunately he was busy at work and could not accompany me.

I spent my first day exploring the Centro Historico in Chihuahua City. The hallmark of the city, like many cities in Mexico, is the cathedral, an 18th century Baroque masterpiece. Also scattered around the city are many other beautiful buildings of different eras. A highlight of the day was visiting Casa Chihauhau, a very nice museum and good introduction to the landscape and culture of Chihuahua. The state of Chihuahua encompasses the forests and mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental, the grasslands to the east, and the arid deserts further east. There was a nice exhibit about the Raramuri, the indigenous people of western Chihuahua (also called Tarahumara), as well as interesting rooms about the rancheros, the Mennonites, and the Mormons. In the basement is the jail cell of Miguel Hidalgo, the first leader of the insurgency of independence from Spain. He was executed nearby. I also went to the Museum of the Mexican Revolution in the former home of Franciso “Pancho” Villa, and learned much about the Mexican Revolution at the beginning of the 20th Century.

On the second day I headed up into the mountains and forests of the Sierra Madre Occidental to a spectacular waterfalls called Cascada de Basaseachi. At about 300 m, it is the second highest waterfalls in Mexico and one the highest in North America. The canyon was impressive with some huge walls. And the biological diversity is amazing – including 96 species of conifers and 76 species of oaks in the National Park. I then drove along the crest of the Sierra Madre Occidental, through beautiful pine forests, to the town of Creel. Creel is the terminus of the railway that winds down through the Copper Canyon – something for another trip. I spent the night in the Jeep below the statue of Cristo Rey overlooking the town. It sounded like maybe a thousand dogs barking below. Although it didn’t really bother me, I awoke in the morning to a town that was strangely quiet. I guess even the dogs needed some sleep. Then the roosters started crowing. A beautiful sunrise, then off to the desert.

The third day was driving across the three major ecotypes of Chihuahua, from the pine-covered mountains, through the grasslands, and out into the arid Chihuahuan desert. I was aiming for the Mapimi Biosphere Reserve and a campground at the Ejido La Flor. I arrived at the ejido about 3 pm. The place was deserted. It felt like something out of a Clint Eastwood movie with a windmill creaking, some faint Mexican music from somewhere, but no people. I waited for an hour and half, and then finally decided to drive back and take a small side road to camp. Then just after sunset, some people came driving up the road to the ejido. A woman drove back in a pick-up truck and said I could not camp there. So I followed her back to the campground and paid 200 pesos, and managed a nice conversation with her despite my poor Spanish. Such kindness. A beautiful warm, starry night, and sunrise, then off to Saltillo.

I love Mexico for all of its diversity. And especially down the middle of Mexico and in the mountains and deserts. The beaches are nice, but the center of the country is where you see so much more of all that is Mexico. .