Learning from the Bribri

I had the privilege of visiting a Bribri village near Puerto Viejo and learn about their culture including all the different plants that are integral to their lives and a visit with the shaman to learn about their belief system. The Bribri are one of eight indigenous peoples that are recognized by the Costa Rican government. In 1977 the government established indigenous reserves granting them legal title to some of their traditional lands (although prior non-indigenous settlers on some of their lands has created some conflict). They retain much of their culture and belief system despite encroaching modernism.

I visited Rosa and her family. It was arranged through a tour guide,Tirza (also Bribri), in Puerto Viejo. A couple from France was also with us. We visited in Rosa's home where she was preparing a large meal for an end-of-year party for the kids of the village. We learned about their traditional homes, how they were built, and how they cooked. We then went for a walk through their property where Rosa and our guide, Rudolfo, told us about all the uses of the different plants including roofing, flooring, housewares, numerous medicines, art, and, of course, food, including the cocao bean from which we get chocolate and is a very important part of their spiritual beliefs.

Part of our experience was making chocolate from dried cocao beans. The beans are dried for five days, then are roasted, crushed using a stone, and then winnowed to remove the skin. We then used a more modern grinder to grind the beans into a paste. We roasted some bananas and ate them with the cocao paste. Chocolate is made by adding sugar and maybe milk. Rosa made us some hot chocolate from the cocao paste. Traditionally only woman prepare the hot cocao drink that is used in religious ceremonies.

We then had a nice lunch of chicken, rice and beans, and roasted bananas. I bought a monkey mask and a cup made out of a calabaza and we were on our way to visit the shaman.

The visit with the shaman, or "awa," was in a traditional conical house which is symbolic of their beliefs. The house is supported by eight pillars which represent the eight animals that helped Sibú (God) create the universe, and is representative of the eight clans of the Bribri. The conical house has four layers above the dirt floor representing the four levels of the world beginning with the world in which we live. The second level is where the spirits of plants and animals live. The third level is where spirits that cause disease and suffering dwell. And the fourth level is where Sibú dwells with his helper, the king vulture. The king vulture serves as a link between Sibú and the other levels of the universe. There are also four levels below the floor, one of which is where Bribri souls go when they die.

The eight pillars are also representative of the eight clans of the Bribri. The clan system is matrilineal which gives women an important place in Bribri society. The women are the ones that inherit land and are the only ones that may prepare the sacred cacao drink used in rituals. A man's role is determined by the clan in which they are born. For example, only men from a certain clan can become awa.

Shamans (awas) train from a young age of about 10 years for about 10 to 15 years. Knowledge of spiritual practices are passed on orally from an older awa to the apprentice. Bribri healing practices combine herbal medicines with spiritual practices. Most herbal medicines are familiar to the Bribri people, but the awa is consulted in bad cases. They also go to western clinics in addition to their own healing practices when needed. For example, I asked and most Bribri are vaccinated. Towards the end of our visit with the awa, he asked if we might like to go through a cleansing ceremony, to which the French couple and I said yes. The visit was very special.